An unexpected bloom of pine trees, mahogany and mahoe grows atop the flinty heads of the Cockpits 3km northwest of Christiana, near Coleyville. This highland nature reserve is laced with picturesque hiking trails and has one of Jamaica’s longest cave systems.

A former hideout for runaway slaves, it has magnificent columns, and narrow fissures and follows the passage of an icy river with overhead air passages that barely clear 30cm in places; you’ll be wading through water that’s 3ft to 4ft deep in places.